How to shop for perfume in Paris like a Parisian

French perfume expert Clémence Pelle lives and breathes fragrance. Here, she shares her favourite perfumeries in Paris, plus her tips on how to buy scent the French way.

For Paris-born fragrance expert Clémence Pelle, perfume is more than a job: "It's my life, it's my hobby, it's in my DNA."

Born in Paris, Clémence Pelle studied fragrance chemistry in Brittany before moving to London, where she became a fragrance expert for Chanel. She has collaborated with brands like Dior and YSL and offers masterclasses. Pelle reviews perfumes and explores fragrance trends on TikTok, YouTube and Instagram.

(Photo by: Hervé Lassïnce)

It's not a bold claim – perfume has been embedded in the Parisian identity since the "perfumed court" of Louis XIV. By the 18th and 19th Centuries, parfumeries had spread throughout the city, helping establish it as the global capital of fragrance, just as it was emerging as a fashion centre.

"[In Paris], you had that mix of fragrance and haute couture very early on, [with Coco] Chanel," says Pelle. "In 1921 she created [Chanel] No 5 to match her vision of modern femininity."

Contemporary French style is often associated with a "less-is-more, spontaneous vibe", says Pelle. "[So we prefer] a very simple eau de toilette that is usually laid back and effortless."

Today, there are hundreds of perfumeries across Paris, ranging from heritage houses like Houbigant and Guerlain to opulent department stores like Galeries Lafayette and Samaritaine.

Pelle favours shopping in the vibrant Le Marais neighbourhood, home to a high concentration of perfume boutiques. Niche fragrance brands like Maison Francis Kurkdjian and Jeroboam sit alongside classics like Chanel and Dior. The sheer choice can be overwhelming, admits Pelle: "At the same time it's inspiring because now we can choose something that really makes us feel unique".

Here are Pelle's tips on how – and where – to shop for perfume in Paris.

Hervé Lassïnce / BBC

What's the "French" way to wear fragrance?

It's very effortless – we don't like complicated, don't like too heavy. In France, when you perfume yourself it's going to be on the pulse points, where the vein is so it can warm up the scent and make it blossom on the skin. One or two sprays maximum on each side of the neck, and that's all. Coco Chanel used to say, 'wear fragrance where you want to be kissed.' [In France, we kiss] when we say hello so you would put fragrance behind the ear so everyone can smell you when they say hello to you. But it's also very, very light. 

What are the current French "it" fragrances?

You still find Chanel No 5 in so many bathrooms.

French people are still very attached to their designer fragrances: Chanel, Dior, Hermes. Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male, a spicy androgynous smell that was used in nightclubs in the '90s and 2000s, is still very popular. For women, it's still and forever Coco Mademoiselle. [But some new] brands that are super popular are Maison Francis Kurkdjian – [they have scents like] Baccarat Rouge or Grand Soir, a beautiful amber-y scent that's [intended] to represent Paris nightlife.

You have some growing brands like BDK, with fragrances like Gris Charnel that smell like cashmere. There's a [trend towards] clean fragrances in Paris; fragrances that smell like laundry, very clean, slightly soapy, skin-like, not too powerful. Very effortless. If you want to try a fragrance that really represents current Parisian trends, [try] Musc K by Ella K; it smells like baby powder, clean like the clothes outside your washing machine.

Hervé Lassïnce / BBC

In terms of etiquette, is there anything that you shouldn't do in a Parisian perfume shop?

Don't test too many at once; shop for perfumes by batch. Go to your favourite niche perfumery and try three, because you get overwhelmed. Try the fragrance on the skin, let it settle for 20 minutes to really see the dry down [full effect]. Stick to three – five fragrances maximum – because otherwise you don't see the development and it might take more time to find the fragrance you need.

Don't spray fragrance and then rub your wrists together. There's a saying in France that if you do, you'll break the molecules of the fragrance and then you can't smell the full composition.

Be respectful and wait for the [assistant] to show you around. Ask first [before you touch anything]. 

You need to say hello when you walk in, especially if you go to Le Marais, which is like a little village. Announce yourself, start the conversation. Us French people, sometimes we are a little fussy. We're not rude, we're just a bit specific. Don't be scared if you see some really judgemental eyes. It's usually not judgemental at all, it's just the basic look of a French person. 

Hervé Lassïnce / BBC

The best place to shop for a large selection of rare fragrance?

Jovoy. They're smaller than Galeries Lafayette but they're really big at the moment. They have a mix of vintage and also very modern fragrances. It's close to the Louvre. It's really beautiful and there's always a team of at least five people on the shop floor to help, so it's a great experience.

Hervé Lassïnce / BBC

The best retro perfume shop?

Officine Universelle Buly is incredible because it looks like an apothecary. Everything is wooden but very old-fashioned... it's a bit like travelling in time. They don't just sell fragrances – they do lots of little soaps and things that they can personalise but in a very vintage way, like a hair kit in a little valise. They obviously have a huge collection of fragrance oil and perfume, but water-based which is a really interesting concept, so it's quite light and fresh – the Parisian vibe.

Hervé Lassïnce / BBC

The best perfume shop to learn about fragrance?

You have so many little boutiques in Paris that are specialised in fragrance.

But there's a boutique called Marie Antoinette, close to Le Marais, and there's a man in there, his name is António [Figuereido], is so passionate about fragrance. He'll tell you how you're going to feel [when wearing it] and the storytelling behind it. Ask for a violet fragrance, and he'll curate five or six and explain why each is different. It makes the fragrance so much more special when you know all these things. Marie Antoinette is super small but it's incredible. It's like being in your grandmum's apothecary.

Hervé Lassïnce / BBC

The best trendy niche perfume shop?

At Univere Parfumerie, you may find brands that you've never seen before, and the managers of this boutique are very specialised in perfumery. The last time I came I asked for something clean and suddenly I had a curated list just for me, just like that. And they do also a lot of events with niche fragrance brands. It's super cool, if you want to discover something. It's a bit more modern, it's super on-trend.

Hervé Lassïnce / BBC

The most innovative Parisian perfume shop right now?

Nowadays you see also a lot of concept boutiques; for example, at Kilian they serve cocktails. If you go to my favourite brand, L'Orchestre Parfum, they'll have you listen to music that matches your fragrance. These things create an emotional connection and it is curated for you. The manager is so passionate, he spends so much time with each client. You finish by hanging out with other customers at the fragrance bar and then everyone starts sharing stories about fragrance. It's a very small boutique but it looks super cool and it's a really amazing time.

* This interview has been condensed for length and clarity.

BBC Travel's The SpeciaList is a series of guides to popular and emerging destinations around the world, as seen through the eyes of local experts and tastemakers. 

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