Chef José Andrés teaches you how to enjoy tapas like a Spaniard
Courtesy of José Andrés and Family in SpainThe Michelin-starred chef helped bring tapas culture to the US, but there's nothing like enjoying them in Spain. Here are his tips for enjoying the beloved shared plates – the Spanish way.
Chef José Andrés has lived in and around Washington DC for 35 years, but he has never forgotten his native Spain – or its delicious culinary customs.
The Asturias-born restauranteur, whose Spanish eateries are often credited with introducing Spanish cuisine to the US, chatted with the BBC about tapas, the deeply social Spanish tradition of dining on shared, snack-sized plates.
"To me, tapas have always been a trojan horse to understand Spain," says Andrés. "When we first opened Jaleo – my Spanish restaurant in Washington – more than 30 years ago, no one was familiar with sharing plates… everyone wanted to have their own meal."
Since then, tapas have travelled the globe. "[These days], people are more willing to push their plates to the centre of the table and share," says Andrés. "Tapas are, at the same time, a simple way of eating and an entire way of life. They are a commitment to being together, sharing dishes, sharing an experience."
The SpeciaList
José Andrés is a Michelin-starred chef, humanitarian and author. His new book, Spain My Way: Eat, Drink and Cook like a Spaniard, out 19 May 2026, is a deeply personal guide to Spain, through a culinary lens.
(Credit: Courtesy of José Andrés and Family in Spain)
But there's nothing like eating them in their country of origin. There are innumerable varieties found throughout Spain's 17 regions, traditionally enjoyed in lively bars called tabernas. But "you'll find tapas everywhere", says Andrés. "In small bars that make very basic tapas, a bowl of olives or chips, all the way to the fine dining places. I think they are an opportunity to do so much in a very small, restricted space, whether you are doing something simple like an anchovy on bread or something wild that no one has ever seen before."
That said, there are unspoken cultural norms to navigating one of Spain's most beloved dining traditions. Here are Andrés's tips for enjoying tapas – like a Spaniard.
What role do tapas play in Spanish culture?
We Spaniards are very social, and tapas are the perfect food for people like us. To be around a table or a bar filled with little plates, it means everyone is putting your hands or forks or spoons in, pouring a bottle of wine, enjoying each other's company.
What is your favourite part of the classic Spanish tapas experience?
I love [a] tapeo (to go on a tapas crawl). This is the way I think about a meal – not staying in one place too long, getting a drink and some bites here, then moving onto the next place and getting another glass of wine and another snack or two.
When is the best time to enjoy tapas?
Whenever you're hungry! C'mon, I'm not trying to tell you how to live your life.
AlamyWhat is your personal favourite tapas order?
I don't have a single favourite tapas order… what I like to do is, if I'm visiting a new restaurant, to see what the people around me are eating. Are they all eating the same one tapa? That might mean it's the specialty of the house and I should get it. Or are they all looking at the bar and seeing what is sitting there, and I should go and look and pick for myself? There are, of course, a few classics – tortilla española (thick omelette made with potatoes and onions), gambas al ajillo (prawns in garlic oil), patatas bravas (fried potatoes in spicy sauce), croquetas (croquettes with a creamy centre) – that you might want to try anywhere, to see how they are the same or different, but I think it's always important to try the specials.
What is the correct drink to pair with tapas, and why?
There is no 'correct' drink, but there are probably incorrect ones. Spaniards, we tend to have a few rules about what you do and don't drink when. We don't usually drink things that are too high in alcohol ahead of the meal; it goes straight to your head. That's why gin-tonics are for after dinner. But with tapas, you can have a glass or bottle of Cava or white wine or red wine (whatever your preference), a few pours of sidra (alcoholic apple cider), a few very cold beers. In Spain you find that the beers are served in small glasses so you can always have a new one that's ice cold! Sherry, vermouth… all of them have their time and place.
Where are your favourite places to get tapas in Spain?
There are neighbourhoods in cities around the country where you can go from bar to bar and try something everywhere… this is the way. Of course, you should go to [the city of] San Sebastián in the Basque Country to try the pintxos (bite-sized Basque bar snacks) on [the historic street,] Calle 31 de Agosto. There is a difference between pintxos and tapas – pintxos are often served on toothpicks and usually sitting out on the top of the bar.
Get anchovies, of course, and try a gilda, the very famous skewer of anchovies, peppers and olives that maybe was the very first pintxo (at least the story goes). If you're in the north [of Spain], check out Calle Laurel in [the city of] Logroño, where every restaurant has its own specialty. They actually call them pinchos there… we Spaniards sometimes like to confuse outsiders! Go for the champiñón con gamba (mushroom-prawn) tapa in one place, the oreja de cerdo (fried pigs' ears) in another, the tortilla española in a third… you will say that Logroño is heaven.
Courtesy of José Andrés and Family in SpainAnd of course you'll want to find yourself in Barcelona, in [the historic neighbourhoods of] el Born and Barri Gotic… if you set your destination to El Xampanyet or Cal Pep or La Plata and then wander from there, you won't go wrong. At La Plata you get pescadito (little fried fish), plus a tomato ensalada (salad), pan con tomate (grilled bread with tomato), and whatever pinchos they have available. [At] El Xampanyet, it's a glass of bubbles and again, take a look behind the tapas bar and order whatever looks good. Cal Pep is for seafood tapas, razor clams and clams, plus fried artichokes.
In Madrid find yourself on Calle Ponzano, just look to see where the Madrileños [locals] are eating or take a walk to the neighbourhood of Lavapiés and find Melo's… you should order the croqueta de lacón (creamy cured pork shoulder croquette) and their zapatilla sandwich with ham and tetilla cheese.
Don't miss the south [of Spain]! If you are in a town like Sanlúcar de Barrameda, there is a tapa you need to find, the very famous tortillita (crispy, lacy fritters) of shrimp. [I like the one] at Casa Balbino… though really anywhere you find shrimp in a place this close to the sea will be a treat.
What's a mistake that visitors always make when ordering tapas?
Don't stay in one place! A drink, a few bites and keep it moving, people!
BBC Travel's The SpeciaList is a series of guides to popular and emerging destinations around the world, as seen through the eyes of local experts and tastemakers.
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