How did people dress in the early Islamic civilisation?

In the early Islamic civilisation, people dressed modestly, meaning they wore loose clothes that covered the body.
Men wore long robes and wrapped turbans, a long piece of cloth wrapped around the head. Women wore long tunics and headscarves or veils.
Rich people could afford fancy fabrics like silk (a smooth, shiny cloth made from silkworms) and damask (cloth with patterns on it, often shiny and smooth).
Poor people wore plain wool clothes and fewer layers.
Clothes were made from linen, cotton and wool.

Important words
Important words about clothes in the early Islamic Civilisation.
| Keyword | Definition |
|---|---|
| Caliph | A leader in Islam. |
| Damask | Cloth with patterns on it, often shiny and smooth. |
| Embroidery | Patterns or writing sewn onto fabric using thread. |
| Modest | Clothing that covers the body in a way that is respectful. |
| Silk | A smooth, shiny cloth made from silkworms. |
| Trade | Buying, selling and exchanging goods. |
| Turban | A long piece of cloth wrapped around the head. |
What did people wear?

In the early Islamic civilisation, it was traditional to dress modestly and cover the body. It was disrespectful if your clothing trailed on the ground or if your undergarments were past the ankle in length.
Men started wearing a long one-piece garment with sleeves called a thawb.
Men would often cover their heads with a turban. One reason for this was to protect them from the hot weather.
Women wore long tunics (qamīs) that reached the ankles and were made of linen or silk for wealthy women.
Many women wore a headscarf or a veil to cover their faces.
Trade brought fabrics from other parts of the Islamic Empire.
Rich people could afford damask fabric (named after Damascus in Syria) which was a patterned silk.
Poor people would have worn cheaper materials such as wool and would have worn fewer layers.
During the Abbasid Caliphate (AD751 - 1258), black robes became important for special events.
Court officials wore black for ceremonies.
Black became a popular colour for clothes because it showed wealth and high status.

What were clothes made from?

The weather in cities like Baghdad was hot and dry, so people needed clothes that kept them cool and protected them from the sun.
Most clothes were made from linen, cotton and wool.
Shoes and sandals were made of leather.
Traders in the early Islamic civilisation introduced new fabrics from around the world, from countries like China.
These included silk which was very expensive.
Because the Islamic Empire was so big, these fabrics travelled long distances, making early Baghdad full of different types of clothes and styles.

Fabrics Traded to Baghdad Around AD 900:
| Fabric | Where it came from |
|---|---|
| Brocade | Persia (Iran) |
| Cotton | India |
| Damask | Damascus (Syria) |
| Silk | China |
Special fabrics and perfumes

A tiraz was a piece of fabric sewn onto robes with writing on it such as a ruler's name.
The word tiraz comes from a Persian word that means 'embroidery' (patterns or writing sewn onto fabric using thread).
Important people who worked for the Caliph (leader) wore these robes to show they were respected.
They were worn as bands and sewn onto robes.
A tiraz could be made of linen, wool or cotton.
Some were dyed yellow, green or brown.


Perfumes were very popular, especially for rich people.
People used spices and oils to make perfume.
They were made from ingredients like roses, orange blossoms and water lilies.
Scientist Al-Kindi carried out experiments to work out ways of creating perfumes with plants and oils.
He wrote a book full of perfume recipes.
Perfume could be used on clothes, hair and as part of religious ceremonies.
They were often stored in beautifully crafted glass bottles.

Think like a historian

Have a look at the thinking points below and think about your answer to each question. You could even write them down on a piece of paper or discuss them with somebody else if you want to.
What is similar about what men and women wore?
How do you think clothes in Baghdad changed because of trade?
Why do you think important people wore Tiraz robes?

Did you think about the type of clothing men and women wore? Men and women both wore long clothes that covered their bodies. They often used light fabrics like linen or cotton to stay cool in the hot weather. Both also wore items to protect themselves from the sun. Men wore turbans and women wore headscarves or veils.
Perhaps you thought about how trade brought new fabric from faraway places like China and India to Baghdad. Wealthy people could afford expensive silks, patterned fabrics and new styles.
Maybe you thought about how important people wore Tiraz robes to show they were respected. The writing and patterns on the fabric showed who they worked for and their loyalty. Wearing these special robes also showed other people that they had high status and were trusted by the leader.
Activity: Quiz – Early Islamic clothing
Grown-ups corner
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