Exploring Russia diary :: 19 November, Yurty

"We have a saying in Siberia," Mariya, our guide, told us. "The forest is nature's treasure chest!"

Mariya loves the Siberian forest. She loves it so much in fact she even talks to the trees.

"What exactly do you say to them?" I asked, a little surprised, as we bumped our way through the forest in a Russian jeep.

Siberians look to the forest for natural cures

"Oh, we chat about all sorts of things," she replied. "You see, in this part of Russia you can drive for hours without seeing another human being - but trees, they're always there and they are always happy to talk."

Mariya doesn't just talk to trees. She hugs them too. "If I'm not feeling too good I look for a silver birch and give it a little cuddle. It always makes me feel better."

Mariya's world resolves around trees. Everyone, she claims, has a particular tree which is good for them.

For her, it's the silver birch. For someone else it might be a pine or an oak. One little hug with your tree, she claims, removes all your pain and stress.

Mariya doesn't bother with a first aid kit, she trusts nature to take care of her.

"For cuts and grazes rub on the sap from a fir tree. If your tummy is playing up eat the bark from a pine tree. And if you've got toothache boil up the bark from a birch tree and gargle."

Vodka and pepper

Mariya's not alone. Many people in the Siberian forest shun the pills and potions of "civilisation", putting their faith in natural remedies.

Take Lida, our Siberian housekeeper. When I mentioned to her that I was developing a bit of a cough from the cold, she burst into action.

Map of Steve's planned route Your questions answered

Would I like, she said, 100 grams of vodka mixed with black pepper? Pass.

What about a mixture of garlic, onion and carrot juice sprayed up the nose? No, thank you.

The suggestions kept coming.

A bowl of hot water full of mustard powder to heat the feet. Or inhaling the steam from a pan of boiled potatoes.

I obviously didn't look too impressed. So Lida came up with the final suggestion - the "banya", a Russian bathhouse.

It was actually a converted cowshed with a big hot stove in it.

The room quickly filled with steam. I had to sit there beating myself with birch twigs, then go straight to bed with a cup of hot milk, butter and honey.

Boils and deafness

I learnt even more about Mother Nature's medicine cabinet by reading the local newspapers. They are full of useful advice.

"Cure baldness by rubbing vodka and pepper on the bald patch!" said one.

Valentina had more energy than a nuclear power station

"Cure deafness by putting drops of Siberian grass juice in your ears!" wrote another.

Another suggested using urine to cure septic boils.

But do all these weird and wonderful remedies keep people fit?

Well, that evening in the village of Yurty we were treated to a little show to prove how healthy and energetic the local population was.

Energetic pensioners

The accordionist struck up and out popped a choir of Russian babushkas dressed in beautiful folk costumes.

The sang a song called "All the other women in the village have young husbands. So why am I stuck with an old goat?"

Then on their marks, get set, go. The babushkas burst into action. They began dancing around the room - twirling and swirling and making us do the same. We could hardly keep up.

This group of pensioners was putting us to shame, especially Valentina in her bright pink dress. She used to be chief cucumber grower down at the local timber factory.

Valentina had more energy than a nuclear power station. She whisked me off my feet and spun me round.

Completely exhausted and head spinning, I collapsed in the corner. By that point, even I was prepared to cuddle a tree.

Your comments:

Each trip a wonderful experience John Boffin, Canada

I did the Trans-Siberian 3 times in 1989/90/91 always alone and in winter, stopping off at Novosibirsk, Irkutck and Xabapobck. At that time Omck and Vladivostok were closed cities. I travelled soft class, often the only passenger in the coach. The probodnik (conductor) mostly women on each car very helpful, making tea on the samovar, providing bed linen and cleaning the car. Dinner in the diner came to 2 roubles, about 40 cents. I found the Siberians charming, generous, cultured and surprisingly well informed. Each trip a wonderful experience.
John Boffin, Canada

I'm a British student currently studying Russian language at Krasnoyarsk State University. I've been here for two and a half months and have loved every minute. Your stories of this fascinating country have reminded me of many of my own experiences and I look forward to reading more.
Mike Stott, Krasnoyarsk, Russia

Great stuff about Siberia! Very true - all of it! I was born and grew up in Kemerovo (Kuzbass, Western Siberia) and moved to the US in 2000, when I was 19 years old. I haven't gone back yet, but I know that except for the first earthquake ever, which they had a few months ago everything is getting better and better. My family comes from Cheremkhovo, Irkutskaya area. Have you ever reached Baikal? I bet you did and you loved it!!!
Sasha Artemova, USA

I am enjoying reading your diary. Last month my husband and I made a journey around Lake Baikal. While I was there I was unable to find out about the ecological situation in the water, whether the paper mill is still spewing pulp into the lake, or whether this has been stopped. Perhaps you will have more success in finding out, and tell us in your diary. I found a tremendous sense of freedom in Eastern Siberia, I hope you enjoy it.
Catherine Laing, UK

1. Leave Moscow: 9 November 2. Yekaterinburg: 10 November 3. Omsk: 11-13 November 4. Novosibirsk: 14-15 November 5. Krasnoyarsk: 16 November 6. Irkutsk: 16-19 November 7. Vladivostok: 20-24 November